With the ambition to capture the nostalgic gleam that emerges when the California sun enlightens these sacred grounds, I leave my telephone at rest, and with the film camera around my neck I depict these historical surroundings. Sentimentality conquers common sense, and the winded ways of working with film all pays off when it comes to documenting this Metropolis of surf, thriving with tradition.
In these times of wear, tear and quick fixes, the urge for immediate access and direct feedback grows stronger with every Instagram-update. The use of film cameras and their slow, primitive features could therefore, with a rational mindset, easily be discarded as superfluous. Our relationship to Southern California however, is all other than rational.
Southern California - the breeding ground for everything style. As much as it still leads the way of contemporary surfing into the future, the incredibly dense heritage is what primarily lures us here. Traces from the past blend with boiling hot evolution, creating a new path - the shape of surf to come.
With butterflies in our tummies and way too big drip coffees in the mug holders of our pickup truck, we roam the coastline in search for the perfect peelers - the most precious morning glass offered for the day. We do not have to search for long. Churches - the spot with the almost ironically suiting name - flourishes with California gold. We paddle out on out knees and share lineup with all kinds of cats and dogs. The pioneers, the legends, the Average Joes. Everyone shares the same waves - the same love. Yet again we experience the perfect cocktail of nostalgia and new. Yet again the California dream comes true.